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Buying a Used Royal Enfield Meteor 350- What to Look Out For!

21 Views • 05/11/23
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Found this and what do YOU think? I have no problem wityh aussies but I have noticed probably like most this guy is probably a Millennial and is a right over critical fuck wit. before I start I have one of thesae partiucular bikes, it's the best bike I've ever had had it nearly two years like this jerk with no reqall issues not even in the running i9n period? He also doesn't say if he bought it secondhand or new? Anyway here goes my critique of the owner not the bike. the first thing I noticed is everything he mentioned is due to lack of proper daily or mileage related checks and adjustments NOT beiunbg carried out when neede3d either by a qualified mechanic or in most cases by your self, it's NOT rocket Science. firat the noices with the front brake? this is due to it being fitted with FULL ABS. even ABS will squeak or judder slightly of you don't use the machine for any period of time, a quick periodical run round the block using the brakes will cure this, alternatively use a little copper slip on the pot's when you clean the cylinders. when you get the popping or misfire this can be due to environment and is easily solved by resetting the CPU with a BDU (Bike diagnostic Unit) and if you have a bike with a cpu well worth the few bucks they cost, simply plug in press enter and reset all the functions. Anyway enough about the BIKE's problems "or Not", oh one more thing - The gear between 1st and second is called "Nuetral" buddy, the 4th and 5th jump out is because you are not using it right and after the bike i9s run in these minor things solve themselves. when I bought mine "NEW" the engine and gearbox was bery tight but with use it runs fine now. another video an Ausssie again (sorry MATE)! lol! claimed his big arrived with a dent in the petrol tank! LOL! on the Meteor 350 the tank has a slight raise or bend in the top of the tank, this is to allow water to run away from your CRUTCH, he thought it was a dent. This otyher guy had had the bike 2 day's and done qabout 100km on it and he had crusified the maker and machine straight away. So if you are buying a secondhand anything - Don'tr buy from Moillennials! lol! Enjoy, by the way all the original YT comments derided thesae fuck wits to death! lol!

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Life_N_Times_of_Shane_T_Hanson

That is very butch....
Though to be fair - it's a bit of a gutless thing - to be 350cc and not run easily at 120 Kmh all day...
I made stainless tuned extractors for a Suzuki 250 GSX and rejetted the carbs - and I could keep up with 1340 Harleys and 1100cc bikes on tight windy roads were outright acceleration and top speeds were not the main issue.... The bike I built had tons of punch between 80Kmh to 120 Kmh - designed it to run like that for long distance and normal highway speeds and over taking etc...

Mainly in 4th and 5th gears... I had a 2 or 3 tooth smaller back sprocket - so it ran faster and cooler, and on the really tight windy sections of the old Pacific Highway - I could keep pace with anything...

Except for perhaps the RD 350 two strokes...

They went like shit off a stick.

So for this 350cc single - it's a pretty piss poor state of tune and low power output...

I would tune that to have a good power band covering say 25 Kmh, with the most power smack dead at 100 Kmh in top gear.

I am not against computers, and fuel injection, but I am dead against having to get special shit to remap them, where as a carburettor, is easy to set up and tune....

Assuming the bore of the carburettor is stock 32mm - I'd fit a 35mm and toss in 3 or 4 sizes larger main jet, and drop the needle down a few notches to start it off slightly leaner...

AND if it had a 33 tooth (or abouts) rear spocket, I'd fit a 3 tooth smaller rear sprocket. Or if it was 28 tooth - I'd fit a 1 or 2 tooth larger front sprocket.

Or some kind of combination to drop the RPM by 10 to 15% in top gear for the same road speed.

This is just Australian thinking for LONG distance travelling ...

You know like a 100 Kmh each way commute.

Let it ease out and warm up to highway speeds for the first 10 Km and then slowly open it up and sit on 100 Kmh all the way.

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